Короткорукавные верхние кафтаны (делии) 16-17 в.

Сообщение **velizariy** » 08 ноя 2017, 21:57

Тема для сбора материала по делиям 16-17 в. С акцентом скорее на упорядочивание известной информации и артефактов. И конечной целью - пошивом верхней мужской одежды с короткими рукавами. Ни по пути понять стоит ли к ней добавить отсоединяемые рукава. И давайте пока воздержимся от дискуссий по поводу терминологии, тут бы хоть пока с конструкцией разобраться.

А пока "свалка" - веселись народ, налетай - источников завезли.

Для начала начнем с выборки короткорукавной одежды из фотоархива сайта http://www.turkishculture.org предметы будут пересекаться с последующими выкладками но то такое - разгребемся.

Резервная копия размещена в гугловской галерее по ссылке: https://photos.app.goo.gl/OA8saUoOhtLqczrh1

Сообщение **velizariy** » 10 ноя 2017, 23:29

Источник: http://www.ee.bilkent.edu.tr/~history/costume.html
http://www.turkishculture.org/pages.php ... ildID1=159
http://www.pbase.com/dosseman/clothes
https://www.periodpaper.com/products/19 ... 0-xdc2-018

№ 13/8
Catma kaftan of Mehmet II the Conqueror (1451-1481). Length 142.5 cm

Kemha kaftan of Bayezid II (1481-1512).

https://www.periodpaper.com/products/19 ... 1-xdc2-010
This is an original 1950 black and white halftone print of a short-sleeved Turkish mantle that belonged to Beyazid II in the 15th century AD. A mantle is like a cloak that is usually worn over indoor clothing. It is made of Serenk. The pattern consists of tulips and leaves wrought in red, blue, white, and gold threads.

№ 13/35
Caftan with short sleeves, double fur, associated with Bayazit II (1481-1512). Length 141 cm
This is an original 1950 black and white halftone print of a short-sleeved and fur lined kaftan that belonged to Beyazid II in the 16th century. A kaftan is like a mantle that is usually worn over indoor clothing. It is a deep violet color and the pattern consists of curved stems with large and small leaves found throughout the design.

http://world4.eu/brocade-caftan-mehmed-the-conqueror/
https://www.periodpaper.com/products/19 ... 6-xdc2-005
http://www.tcfdatu.org/en/portfolio/ana ... eum-44.htm
№ 13/6
Traditional Design of Turkish brocade caftan on silk, of Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror (1432-1481) Length 117 cm.
This is an original 1950 color print of a short-sleeved under kaftan that belonged to Sultan Mehmet II, the Conqueror in the 15th century. A kaftan is like a cloak that is usually worn over indoor clothing. This kaftan in this print is made of velvet with a pattern of cloud-bands and groups of three dots.

Сообщение **velizariy** » 10 ноя 2017, 23:32

Источник: http://www.turkishculture.org/pages.php ... ildID1=159
http://world4.eu/turkish-caftan-sultan-selim-i/
https://www.periodpaper.com/products/19 ... 6-xdc2-024
https://www.periodpaper.com/products/19 ... 4-xdc2-022
https://www.periodpaper.com/products/19 ... 5-xdc2-023

№ 13-46
Caftan with short cotton sleeves, having belonged to Selim I the Terrible (1512-20). 16th century
This is an original 1950 black and white halftone print of a short-sleeved kaftan that belonged to Sultan Selim II. A kaftan is like a mantle that is usually worn over indoor clothing. It was made of red moire silk and the pattern contains large serrated leaves wrought with gold thread.

№13-41
Caftan with short sleeves and collar going up, associated with Selim I the Terrible (1512-20).
This is an original 1950 black and white halftone print of a short-sleeved kaftan that belonged to Sultan Selim II. A kaftan is like a mantle that is usually worn over indoor clothing. The colors were originally yellow silk dots on a red background.

Caftan with short sleeves associated with Selim I the Terrible (1512-20) L. 140.5 cm."
This is an original 1950 black and white halftone print of a short-sleeved kaftan that belonged to Sultan Selim II. A kaftan is like a mantle that is usually worn over indoor clothing. The groups of three dots may have been meant to represent roses with curved stems surrounding them. The color was originally powder-blue.

Похож на кафтан Селима № 13/40. Длина 144 см.

Сообщение **velizariy** » 10 ноя 2017, 23:38

Детские "делии"
Источник: http://www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr/tr/cont ... t%C3%BCler
http://www.turkishculture.org/pages.php ... ildID1=159
http://www.pbase.com/dosseman/clothes
http://www.tcfdatu.org/en/portfolio/ana ... eum-44.htm

Childhood kaftan of Ahmet I 16th century.
Young man's caftan with short sleeves (back) associated with Ahmet I. Red silk decorated with floral pattern, late 16th century
“Princely Kaftan, Associated with Ahmed I. 17th century. L. 76.5 cm.” Regards, R. John Howe

№13-268
Caftan with short sleeves (back) from the tomb of Ahmet I. End of the 16th century.

Childhood caftan of Ahmed 1, silk brocade with spring blossoms

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O8510 ... n-unknown/
This kaftan, made around 1590, was probably worn by one of the young sons of Murad III. When Murad III died in 1595 and his son Mehmet won the struggle for the throne, Mehmet (now Mehmet III) killed all 19 of his younger half-brothers. The practice wasn’t only allowed, it was explicitly encouraged by the founder of the dynasty, but previously most princes had died in battle or were old enough to be a threat to the successful prince. Mehmet III not only set a record for fratricide, he killed all of his brothers, down to the newborns. The public outcry put an end to the practice.
Length: 71 cm Width: 78.5 cm

http://issendai.com/ottoman-turkish/kut ... in-a-note/
№ 13/275

Ipek: The Crescent & the Rose (p. 254) describes this zıbın/hırka as “Kaftan of quilted, striped kutnu in yellow, blue, cream and black (inv. no. 13/275)”. It belonged to Hanzade Sultan.
The note is an entertaining hissy fit: “How could you sew the kaftans in such a poor fashion? How could anyone wear such a garment? Who in the world would even put on these black trousers? Have you never heard of fabrics of scarlet or white atlas?”
I have to agree. The hip curves are the most ungainly lumps I’ve ever seen.

Сообщение **velizariy** » 10 ноя 2017, 23:55

Источник: http://www.turkishculture.org/pages.php ... ildID1=159
№ 13/830
Outerwear with short sleeves, associated with Selim I the Terrible (1512-20). Длина 83,5 см.

№ 13/39
Short caftan associated with Selim I the Terrible (1512-20). Partially double red satin waffle velvet grids, early 16th century. Длина 87 см.

№ 13/38
Кафтан Баязида II (1481-1512). Длина 87 см.

№ 13/277

Сообщение **velizariy** » 11 ноя 2017, 10:00

Источник: http://www.turkishculture.org/pages.php ... ildID1=159
http://www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr/tr/cont ... t%C3%BCler

Кафтаны Сулеймана (1520-1566).
№ 13/100

№ 13/111
Длина 150 см.

Сообщение **velizariy** » 11 ноя 2017, 10:01

Источник: http://www.turkishculture.org/pages.php ... ildID1=159
http://www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr/tr/cont ... t%C3%BCler

Энтари

№13-198
Robe associated with Murat III (1574-95). Dark blue and doubled in white satin, 16th century

https://www.periodpaper.com/products/19 ... 7-xdc2-016
This is an original 1950 black and white halftone print of a Turkish kaftan that belonged to Murad III in the 16th century AD. A kaftan is like a mantle that is usually worn over indoor clothing. It is made of blue silk with gold and silver dots. The lining on the inside of the garment is a pattern of crescents.

Сообщение **velizariy** » 11 ноя 2017, 21:19

http://world4.eu/brocade-caftan-osman-iii/
http://issendai.com/ottoman-turkish/vin ... ed-kaftan/
№ 13/584
Кафтан султана Османа III (1754 – 1757) или Османа II (1618 – 1622).
Length: 139 cm, 54.72 in.
Width from Cuff to Cuff: 140 cm
Loom Width: 66.5 cm

http://world4.eu/ottoman-kaftan/
Turkish, Ottoman kaftan. Turkish brocade on silk. Caftan of sultan Mehmed the Conqueror (1432-1481)

http://world4.eu/caftan-of-sultan-bayezid/
http://www.pbase.com/dosseman/clothes
Turkish brocade caftan. Turkish brocade on silk, caftan of Sultan Bayezid III (1448-1512)

Сообщение **velizariy** » 11 ноя 2017, 21:26

Источник: http://www.turkishculture.org/pages.php ... ildID1=159
http://www.pbase.com/dosseman/clothes
http://www.mustafacambaz.com/categories ... 94e&page=2

№ 13/176
Caftan with short sleeves, associated with Selim II (1566-74). Floral decorations and linings of red silk sinks, 16th century. Длина 150 см.

Второй кафтан Селима II (1566-74).
№ 13/177
Длина 137 см.
Date: Mid-16th century
Fabric: Zerbaft
Length: 137 cm
Shoulder width: 66 cm
Sleeve length: 31.5 cm. A very rough estimation of sleeve width is 35 cm or 13.78 inches.
Loom width: 66.5 cm plus fold
Source: Ipek: The Crescent and the Rose, p. 219

Сообщение **velizariy** » 11 ноя 2017, 23:16

"Сокровища османских султанов"
№13/195
Кафтан Мурада 3 (1574-1595)

Источник: http://www.turkishculture.org/pages.php ... ildID1=159
№ 13/385
Caftan with short sleeves that belonged to Mehmet III (1595-1603). Длина 160 см.

Late 16 c. kaftan of Sultan Ahmet I

Сообщение **velizariy** » 12 ноя 2017, 14:04

http://www.turkishculture.org/pages.php ... ildID1=159
http://www.pbase.com/dosseman/clothes
№ 13/360
Caftan with short sleeves (back) believed to belong to Osman II (1618-22). Velvet stitches on gold cloth with blue velvet decoration and stylized lotus pattern. 17 century. Длина 135 см.

№ 13/413
Caftan with short sleeves associated with Murat IV (1623-40). Blue velvet stitches set in floral rhombus pattern, made in Italy in the 17th century. Длина 105 см.

Сообщение **velizariy** » 12 ноя 2017, 14:31

http://www.turkishculture.org/pages.php ... ildID1=159
№ 13/514
Caftan with short sleeves associated with Soliman II (1687-91). Satin withstylized tulips made of gold cloth, 17th century. Длина 164 см.

№ 13/522
Caftan with short sleeves associated with Ahmet II (1691-3). Ivory colored satin decorated with brown three circle pattern. 17th century. Длина 134 см.

Сообщение **velizariy** » 12 ноя 2017, 17:19

Детские кафтаны из V&A музея.
https://mollywilliams.blog/2017/03/22/v ... s-kaftans/
https://mollywilliams.blog/2017/03/26/o ... n-linings/

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/lisafiye/15 ... ens-dress/
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1293 ... n-unknown/
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O9081 ... n-unknown/
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O8623 ... n-unknown/
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1091 ... n-unknown/

Сообщение **velizariy** » 12 ноя 2017, 17:26

PDF: Wearden J. The Royal Garments, fabric, design, tailoring.Ottoman kaftans from the Victoria and Albert Museum, London

ottoman-kaftans-from-the-victoria-and-albert-museum-london.pdf: (5.83 МБ) 208 скачиваний

или
https://textilematters.files.wordpress. ... london.pdf

Сообщение **velizariy** » 26 ноя 2017, 14:15

Варианты раскроев из литературы.
Tasarım Ve Süsleme Öğeleriyle Topkapı Sarayı Padişah Kaftanları
https://kitabhona.org.ua/forums/viewtop ... 462#p24462

13/584 - наверное ошибка - не совпадает крой.

13/558